56 years ago, on the 13th of
August, 1961, 30,000 soldiers surrounded West Berlin and put up 160km
of barbed wire overnight, separating the entire city. Thousands lost
their jobs, families were separated and even their homes. This was
another turning point in Germany's troubled history, one that is
still felt today. The Berlin Wall grew, going from a barbed wire
fence guarded by soldiers with guns, to a fully secured border zone,
almost impossible to cross. At least 138 people lost their lives in
Berlin trying to cross and only about 5,000 managed to escape into
the West.
It's been 27 years since the Wall fell,
and its damage can still be felt in the capital. A scar runs through
the entire city, marking where the Wall had stood, and memorials
scattered along it, mourning its victims.
Sunday was the 56th
anniversary of the erection of the Berlin Wall and many gathered to
remember those who died trying to escape or even guard the Wall.
Every year since 2011, an ultra marathon is held in Berlin, over the
entire course of the Berlin Wall. Either solo or in teams, the
runners run a distance of 160km, or roughly 100 miles. The record, by
the way, is of 13 hours and 6 minutes!
I know I could never run that far, but
cycling seemed possible. Some colleagues and I decided to try and
cycle the entire length of the Berlin Wall in one day. If people can
run it, we could cycle it. Our leader, William, offers to do about
half the length as a tour with When in Berlin, so at least we had
someone with us who was familiar with the course.
Photo credit: William Mollers |
We set off at 6am, starting at the
Brandenburg Gate, a historic place where many Berliners came to
celebrate the fall of the Wall on November 9th, 1989. We
headed south and slowly made our way around the entire length. We
started off at a good pace, stopping every so often at important
sights and memorials, and taking breaks when necessary.
Here, Germany and Europe were separated until the 13th of November 1989 at 6pm. |
Watch Tower near the Havel River |
We passed Checkpoint Charlie, the
famous American checkpoint in the centre of the city, and Checkpoint
Bravo on the outskirts of the city, separating East Germany and West
Berlin. At Wannsee (a big lake in southern Berlin), we took the ferry
across and stopped for lunch at a Biergarten. After a beer and some
hearty German food, we headed out once again, this time at a faster
pace. Some of the roads after lunch were quite rough, some not paved
at all, but mostly beautiful. We cycled through forests, next to
canals and rivers, on roads and finally back into the city, ending
our journey 13 hours later right where we starting, at the
Brandenburg Gate.
Checkpoint Charlie |
Checkpoint Bravo, or Dreilinden |
Wannsee |
In total, we cycled 140km (we skipped a 20km detour around Wannsee and took the ferry instead), which took 7.5 hours. With all our breaks and stops, our journey took exactly 13 hours, just as we had planned.
Five days later, my thighs (and butt)
are finally not sore anymore, but my head is still spinning. I
learned so much that day, about “unofficial” victims, what the
Wall really looked like outside the city centre, remnants still
standing, how much was destroyed in order to have this built, and how
much is still left to rebuild because of it. It definitely gave me a
renewed appreciation for how lucky I am to have been born in a
country like Canada and how fragile it all is.
Near the very first Checkpoint to have opened on November 9th, 1989 |
I'm alive!!!! |
The route itself was gorgeous, well
marked and easily to follow. Other than a few parts that were quite
rough on the bikes (big, uncared for cobblestones paths, for
example), but for the most part, it was smooth sailing. You can be
sure I will be doing this next year again!